Installation Guide

Board & Batten





Material Handling

Be careful when handling metal panels and trim. Edges are sharp and proper safety equipment should be worn to prevent injury. Forklifts can damage the underside and edges of panels so extreme caution is necessary when using such equipment. Do not drag panels off the stack to remove; either lift or "roll" the panels off. Panels should be carried vertically by the panel edge. Panels over 20' long may require extra help to handle. Long panels can also be lifted with a forklift if lift straps are used to "roll" the panel or a spreader bar is used.



Material Storage

Paint and finishes of Marco Metals panels and trim are designed to withstand severe rain and wet weather conditions. Neither paint, galvanized, nor Galvalume® finishes, however, are designed to be in continuous contact with water for long periods of time. Irreparable damage will result if uninstalled panels or trim are allowed to remain wet in storage. Be sure to store material that will not be installed immediately in a dry location. Wet material should be airdried and re-stacked if installation is not planned right away. DO NOT cover metal panels with plastic or tarps without leaving adequate ventilation (at least 12 inches) under the cover and metal stack. Neglecting this will result in significant collection of moisture between panels and void the paint warranty.



Trimming and Cutting Steel Panels

Trimming and Cutting Steel Panels The best device for cutting steel panels across the profile is a good-quality offset hand snips, a nibbler or a power shear. Use of circular or reciprocating saws to cut metal panels is not recommended and will void the paint warranty. If you do use a saw, cut with the bottom side up to prevent hot shavings from contacting the painted side. Be sure other panels are protected from hot shavings. To cut panels lengthwise: Note Carefully where the panel is to be cut, and using a straight-edge, score deeply down the length of the panel with a sharp-pointed utility knife. Folding the panel along the score mark, and bending back again if necessary, should produce a clean break in the panel. Snips or shears may also be used. Cutting holes in the metal panel is done by drilling a starter hole big enough to accommodate the cutting tool to be used. Pre-drilling metal panels before installation is a common practice, but doing so while in the stack can result in burrs that leave scratches in the painted surface of the panel below. Should such scratches be exposed and rust they are not covered by the paint warranty. Metal filings from cutting or the installation of screws, if left on the panel, can cause rust spots to form. Care should be taken to brush all such particles from the metal surface after installation to maintain paint integrity. CAUTION! - Clean all metal shavings and particles off the roof to avoid unsightly rust stains.



INSTALLATION OF PANELS

Oil-canning

Oil-canning is a wave-like, rippled appearance extending up the length of a metal panel after it has been installed. Some oil-canning is common with any metal but careful storage, handling and roof preparation will keep it to a minimum. Any irregularities in the underlying surface, including uneven plywood joints, warped plywood, uneven purlins, poor application of underlayment, the use of button caps with underlayment, etc., can promote oil-canning or dimpling. Careless storage and handling can also contribute to oil-canning. Care should be taken to provide a flat, uniform surface on which to attach the panels, or (in the case of using purlins) to ensure the purlins are even. Longer panel lengths increase the probability of oil-canning. Alternatively, 3/8" backer rod may be taped to the back center of a flat panel for the same purpose. Oil canning is normal and is not cause for rejection. When using house wrap or underlayment, button caps should be avoided in favor of staples or flat-head screws or nails.







Board and Batten Fastening

Fasten the screw flange with fasteners spacing every 16" along the length of the panel. The batten of the next panel will snap into the cleat of the screw flange of the previous panel. In certain circumstances a rubber mallet may be used to help tap the batten into place.




Outside Corner and Cleat

The outside corner cleat is installed first using either flat head screws or fasteners or standard color match screws. The type of fastener used is not important as it will be concealed by the corner and protected from the weather. The corner trim itself will be attached to the cleat using color-matched pop rivets.




Inside Corner and Cleat

The inside corner cleat is installed first using either flat head screws or fasteners or standard color match screws. The type of fastener used is not important as it will be concealed by the corner and protected from the weather. The inside corner trim itself will be attached to the cleat using color-matched pop rivets.




Gable Ends

When installing panels at the gable end, it's essential to align the middle batten with the gable's center. Begin the installation from the center, working towards both the left and right sides. Start by trimming the nailing flange from a full-size panel (refer to the diagram). Attach this nailing flange at the gable end's center, ensuring that the batten aligns with the gable's midpoint. After securing the nailing flange to the base, cut off the batten from another full-size panel (as shown in the diagram). Attach this piece to the base, sliding the cut side into the open hem of the already-attached nailing flange. This should result in two nailing flanges facing each other with open hems. To complete this initial gable panel, secure a regular-width panel to the base, clipping its batten into the central nailing flange, just as you would for normal panel installation. This setup allows you to proceed with installation in both left and right directions.







Rat Guard and Drip Flashing

The Rat Guard functions as a base angle and is used to ensure an even bottom line for your panels. The Drip Flashing is installed over windows, doors, and other openings. For both the Rat Guard and Drip Flashing, mantain a minimum of a 1/4" gap between the bottom of the panel and the trim.




Utility Trim

The Utility Trim is used inside of the J-Channel to protect the cut edge of the Board and Batten panel, and to secure it in place to prevent it from rattling.